Friday, September 20, 2013
Go Ahead and Take the Plunge with these Two Bros
Two Bros. BBQ Market
12656 West Ave.
San Antonio, TX
Smoking brisket is like taking the plunge into marriage.
The choices you make upfront can lead to results that are very good.
…Very, very bad.
Without the right commitment to quality meat, good rub, ideal hard wood, a top notch smoker and lots and lots of patience and time, you are in for a final product devoid of spice, flavor or tenderness.
It will be nothing but an expensive exercise in wasted effort.
You’ll be looking to sign divorce papers as soon as you bite into a bad brisket that tastes like a dry, tasteless hunk of unchewable roast beef.
Don’t even think about walking down that aisle unless you commit to doing it right.
I’m happy to report that the bros at Two Bros BBQ Market on the north side of San Antonio know exactly how to do brisket right.
Any doubt is dispelled the moment you pull up into the parking lot and notice the smoke billowing up from the smoker out back.
You’ll know you made the right choice as soon as you open the front door and are greeted by the sweet aroma of cow fat being slowly melted by the embers of Texas post oak.
Two Bros is nothing like the scary dilapidated old brisket smoke shacks down around Lockhart like Smitty’s and Black’s.
This place has been around for only four years, an infantile newcomer to the century’s old art of smoking briskets in the Lone Star State.
Rustically located under some old live oak trees -- a few of which grow right up through the middle of the restaurant -- it’s still hard to camouflage the new construction feel of Two Bros BBQ Market.
But what it lacks in old school credentials, Two Bros more than makes up for with its real deal authentic Texas barbeque.
The pit master sliced off a couple thick swaths of brisket and a smoked sausage onto my butcher paper.
Unlike in Lockhart, plastic utensils are available at Two Bros -- but you won’t need them.
The hunks of beef fall apart at the mere touch of your fingers.
The thick dark crunchy bark on the edge of each slice ignites a combustion of salty flavor in every bite.
The soft tender inside of the slice offers a smoky succulent counterbalance to the bark.
Each bite of decadent fatty beef almost melts in your mouth like bovine butter.
It’s like giving a make-over to Kate Upton, but I couldn’t resist the urge to dip a few hunks of brisket into Two Bros warm homemade sauce.
The sauce is completely unnecessary -- yet completely delicious with a nice balance between spicy tang and tomatoey sweetness.
The sausage approached heights of perfection as well.
Taught and smoky, each bite offered a nice snap of greasy meaty flavor.
Well done, bros, well done.
Even the sides were top notch.
The mac and cheese was thick and goopy the way your grandma made it.
The beans were a kaleidoscope of flavor, balancing the savory goodness of bacon with the sweetness of Texas peaches. You won’t find anything like this in the canned goods aisle of your local grocery.
That’s for sure.
Since it was the middle of a Suit757 workday, a Shiner Bock to wash all this Texas barbeque down just wasn’t an option.
So I went with the Texas BBQ Plan B Beverage -- a can of Big Red -- the syrupy sweet red soda that leaves your tongue stained with artificial coloring for 24 hours.
Big Red is so bad it has never managed to spread much beyond the borders of the Lone Star State.
But as Texas songwriter Robert Earl Keen explained in his song “Barbeque”, “a cold Big Red” is considered obligatory when dining on Texas brisket and sausage.
Like marriage, picking a place in Texas to eat brisket takes something of a leap of faith.
Sure, I did my homework and read about Two Bros awards as one of the top BBQ shacks in Texas, but until you commit to lifting that first bite of beef off your butcher paper you can never really be totally sure what you are going to get.
That’s where Suit757 comes in.
Consider me to be your brisket marriage counselor.
If you in San Antonio -- heck, if you are ever within 100 miles of San Antonio -- do yourself a favor.
Make the commitment. Tie the knot. Take the plunge at Two Bros BBQ Market.
You’ll live happily ever after.
Rating: Bought the Shirt!