Tuesday, November 10, 2015
130 Boren Ave.
I have to admit, I was hesitant about checking out 13 Coins.
The on-line reviews just aren’t very good.
But then I thought, “What do people in Seattle know anyway?”
After all, this is the city that actually erected a statue just two miles from here to Communist Dictator Vladimir Lenin, the man who introduced to the world the most destructive and violent ideology of the 20th Century.
And of course Seattle is the city that replaced the testosterone-fueled rock n roll of my youth with Grunge.
Instead of Bon Scott and David Lee Roth singing about kicking butt and banging chicks, we get scruffy effeminate dudes staring at their shoes mumbling about suicide and their low self-esteem.
I’m taking advice on where to eat from these people?
Not a chance.
My breakfast at 13 Coins was an example of what makes suffering the indignities of modern travel all worthwhile.
First of all the place is just cool.
Of course all the Seattle hipster Yelp reviews come to the exact opposite conclusion.
But I assure you, if you are seeking a discrete spot to rendezvous with that busty new blonde receptionist -- or to plot the overthrow of the federal government -- 13 Coins is the perfect spot.
As you walk in and your eyes adjust to the dim old school lighting, you notice a row of snug booths on the left that envelope their patrons in ten foot walls of black leather.
On the right is more black leather, this time in the form of enormous swivel bar stools wrapping each patron in a cocoon of privacy.
That is where I chose to ensconce myself with a perfect view of the flaming grill in front of me.
The primary reason I chose to ignore the lackluster reviews and give 13 Coins a try is because I heard they served a mean “Hangtown Fry” for breakfast, an elusive culinary delicacy I’ve been meaning to try for years.
A Hangtown Fry is an omelet of onions, bacon and oysters.
What’s not to like, right?
It is a West Coast specialty that originated in Placerville, California during the height of the Gold Rush in a town so rough and tumble locals just called it “Hangtown.”
As in “Hang him by the neck until he dies.”
Legend has it that some cocky miner flush from a big score walked into a Placerville saloon, threw his winnings on the bar top and demanded the most expensive entrée the cook could assemble.
In those days before refrigeration, eggs, bacon and oysters were rare luxuries.
I sat there mesmerized as the cook sautéed and flipped the onions, eggs, oysters and bacon over an open flame right in front of me.
The result is a decedent breakfast for the gods.
While I can always wish for a few more oysters, you could taste the briny crustaceans in almost every bite, as the salty oyster liquor permeated the entire omelet.
The bacon lended a smoky essence while the onions spiced up the well-seasoned fluffy eggs.
Omelets don’t get much better than this.
On the side, I requested 13 Coins famous hash browns.
Crispy on the outside and soft on the inside, these hash browns benefited from a liberal dousing of oily, greasy goodness.
Clearly, the old school atmosphere gives this place its claim to fame, but the food doesn’t lack for attention either.
No doubt about it, hip isn’t an adjective you would use for 13 Coins or its throwback Hangtown Fry.
But I’ll take oysters and bacon, AC/DC and Van Halen over hip most days of the week.
Even in Seattle.
Rating: Bought the Shirt!
Monday, September 14, 2015
101 President Ave.
Fall River, MA
“Blue collar cities = Budweiser crap.”
-- Cousin757 email to Suit757
You can tell we’re kin, huh?
Yeah, Cousin757 loves double IPAs even more than I do. She probably wouldn’t drink a Sam Adams if it were free.
I guess that’s where the similarities end. I’m pretty sure I’ve never turned down a beer.
Ever. Not even a Bud.
But Cousin757’s warning about the perils of finding a good place to sample local double IPAs near her home in Fall River, Massachusetts was well taken.
This is the town that is famous for two things: the gang rape trial depicted by Jody Foster in “The Accused” and Lizzy Borden -- who axe murdered her parents.
Not exactly Chamber of Commerce marketing material.
Folks in this gritty former textile town are perfectly happy with their bottles of Bud, thank you very much. Hoity toity beer snobs like us can keep their “fancy beer” inside of Route 128.
But Cousin757 mentioned a strip mall brewhouse that serves an unusually nice selection of suds in this blue collar town.
Battleship Brewhouse in Fall River.
Deal. Count me in.
If USAir doesn’t ruin my life, I’ll be there at 7:30pm on Wednesday night!
To add yet another layer of festivity, my sister unexpectedly decided to drive four hours round trip to join us.
The lengths people will go to down a few brews with Suit757!
I was honored.
And thirsty when I pulled into the nearly empty trash-strewn parking lot on the outskirts of downtown Fall River.
Next to a nail salon and a Chinese take-out joint, Battleship Brewhouse’s parking lot view didn’t look too promising.
But the inside was much better, freshly painted with pictures of the namesake USS Massachusetts battleship parked on the Fall River waterfront.
Other than a small scattering of a few lonely beer drinkers, we had the place to ourselves.
I kicked off this 757 family reunion in style -- with a beer flight, of course.
While Fall River doesn’t appear to have climbed aboard the craft beer bandwagon with a local brewery, the beer menu offered some tasty options from other parts of the People’s Republic of Taxachussetts.
I chose an IPA from Ipswich Ale and a porter and IPA from Mayflower Brewing in Plymouth for my maiden flight of three.
I thought Mayflower’s IPA was a little thin, but the porter was toasty, malty and full of flavor.
The Ipswich IPA was definitely a notch above the Mayflower. And isn’t that why we order beer flights -- to compare and contrast -- and declare a winner?
Congratulations Ipswich IPA.
But that was just the warm up for one of the greatest beers to ever grace my liver -- Vermont’s Otter Creek Backseat Berner -- a hoppy IPA masterpiece with aromatic piney hops balanced perfected with a tasty malt backbone.
Four beers into the festivities (don’t worry, three of them were 5oz samplers), it was time to join my cuz on the heavy double IPA side of the beer menu.
I opted to leave New England for Colorado’s Left Hand Brewing. Their Nitro Stout is a Suit757 Hall of Famer, so I was anxious to try the Twin Sisters. She didn’t disappoint. Twin barrels of hoppy deliciousness.
By this point in the evening it was past time to start thinking about actual non-liquid sustenance.
Cousin757 had warned me, “The beer selection is decent but you probably won’t be buying the shirt.”
Well, we’ll see about that.
As they say at the kick off of football season, “That’s why they play the games.”
Like many blue collar sections of America, Fall River has developed its own unpretentious culinary traditions (and language) that you just won’t find on your local two-for-twenty Applebee’s menu.
Chourico (pronounced “shar-eese”), Linguica (pronounced “ling-weese”), Quahogs (pronounced “stuffies”), Clam Chowder (pronounced “chowdah”) and Pork Altejana (pronounced “pork and necks”).
Many of these dishes originated in the islands off of Portugal and were transported here to the southeast coast of New England by Portuguese settlers generations ago.
Cousin757 has exactly zero Portuguese blood. I know -- I’ve researched our family history.
Just don’t tell her.
She sure sounds like she knows what she’s talking about because she married into a native family.
She warned me that Battleship Brewhouse probably isn’t your first, second, third or fourth choice in Fall River (pronounced “Fall Rivah”) for sampling authentic local Portuguese dishes, but I was determined to give it a shot.
After all, I can order another cheesesteak or overcooked burger anywhere.
The clam chowder was creamy and chock full of local clams. Not as thick as I usually prefer, but pretty darn tasty.
The quahog was an oversize clam shell stuffed with diced clam bits and seasoned breading mixed together with spicy seasoning. Instead of a crabcake, think a clamcake -- on the half shell. Probably the highlight of the meal.
As a sausage connoisseur, I just HAD to try some local chourico -- a dense local Portuguese sausage. So I opted for the “Mac & Cheese and Chourico Flatbread”.
I hate to say it but it was a bit of a disappointment.
It was basically a thin pizza with some macaroni piled on top.
Cousin757 asked, “Where’s your ‘chareese’??”
On top of the macaroni was a thin sprinkling of red flakes, kinda like bacon bits. No thick slices of sausage I was hoping for.
Basically the flatbread was just a disappointing mouthful of carbs.
Fortunately, the meal was salvaged by the Pork Altejana, a stew of diced potatoes and pork chunks in a well-seasoned garlicy, peppery broth.
Wow. You could put that sauce on my flip-flops and I’d gladly eat them.
The littleneck clams on the side lended a nice balance to this Portuguese version of surf and turf.
While my sister and I were pretty infatuated with this dish, our cuz was left underwhelmed.
“The clams are supposed to be steamed in the broth,” she griped. “I can make better Altejana than that.”
My sister and I took that as an open invitation.
And that’s one of the great perks of this traveling life.
Flight delays, 3am hotel check-ins and TSA crotch gropings aside, the opportunity to drop in on family and friends scattered across America on a random Wednesday night makes it all worthwhile.
After all, double IPAs go down even better in good company.
Rating: Seriously Thought About Buying Shirt.
Labels: Battleship Brewhouse, Beer, Chouico, Clam Chowder, Fall River, Ipswich IPA, Left Hand Twin Sisters, Massachusetts, Mayflower IPA, Mayflower Porter, Otter Creek Backseat Berner, Pizza, Pork Altejana, Quahog, Suit757
Wednesday, July 22, 2015
423 Carrollton Ave.
“The Mississippi Delta is the most Southern place on earth.”
-- James C. Cobb
I have lots of reasons I love the South.
Warm weather. NASCAR. College football. Great music. Ole Miss sorority girls.
But as great as all those things are, it’s Southern cooking that gets me most excited.
The Crystal Grill here in Greenwood on the outskirts of that “most Southern place on earth”, is one of the best places to discover the delicacies of the old Confederacy such as catfish, tamales, turnip greens, gumbo and -- most important of all -- pie.
Southerners have been coming to the corner of Lamar St. and Carrollton Ave. to eat for nearly a century.
At one point during the heyday of the locomotive, railroad workers and tourists alike would come over to the Crystal Grill from Greenwood’s railroad depot across the street at all hours of the night.
“Never sleep.” That was the mantra of the old Crystal Grill when it stayed open until 4am.
Here in the 21st Century, Amtrak’s “City of New Orleans” (immortalized by Steve Goodman, Arlo Guthrie, Willie Nelson and Johnny Cash) only makes one stop per day, so the hours at Crystal Grill have reverted to conform to the more normal schedule of Southern diners.
While the hours may have shrunk over the years, the restaurant has expanded, taking up a whole city block of connected rooms filled with locals chatting about Greenwood gossip.
As an out-of-towner, you get the feeling that every last resident of this city knows the Crystal Grill is a world class dining destination -- and they all take full advantage of their good fortune.
The food options here are vast and a bit overwhelming.
Unfortunately, the same cannot be said for the beer selection.
Coors Light. Bud Light. Miller Lite.
I opted for the Coors version of watered-down, tasteless, mass produced yellow fizz.
Unfortunately for me, Mississippi is one of the last holdouts in the craft beer revolution.
But nobody comes to the Crystal Grill to drink beer. Folks come here to eat!
I began my feeding frenzy with that quintessential Delta snack, the hot tamale.
Nobody knows exactly how a Mexican food originated as a staple here in the Delta. Most folks here are black or white.
Mexican? Not so much.
But it is safe to assume that some Mexican migrants may have found their way into the Delta to help with the cotton crop over a century ago -- and brought a recipe along that black and white Southerners have perfected into their very own Southern specialty.
You’ll find little roadside shacks selling tamales all over the Delta.
But the tamales here at the Crystal Grill are the best I’ve ever tried.
Wrapped snuggly in their corn husks, unrolling a steaming tamale is more exciting than Christmas morning.
Soft sweet corn meal gives way to a piping hot center of tender shredded beef. The entire concoction is marinated in a peppery broth, lending these tamales a subtle spicy bite that made my Coors Light taste better than it deserved.
Next came a cup of gumbo loaded with shrimp, crab meat and even a few Mississippi Gulf Coast oysters. Chock full of okra, spice and goodness, this is one of the best cups of gumbo I’ve tried in the Magnolia State.
Of course you can’t have gumbo without bread. The Crystal Grill brings out two varieties -- both equally fresh and warm from the oven -- and addictive.
The soft yeast rolls come from a decades old Greenwood recipe.
The firm but sweet corn muffins melted my pat of butter on contact.
By this point, my hunger was long gone. But my Chrystal Grill lunch was just getting started.
Classic Southern lunchroom style, the menu lets you choose a meat and two vegetables.
I opted for fried catfish, crisp and seasoned to perfection.
My dining companion scored some of the best fried chicken either of us had ever tried.
But the vegetables were the stars of the show.
Turnip greens, earthy and bitter yet sweetened with Southern love and pig fat.
As a devout follower of that school of vegetable thought, I had to try something called “fried broccoli”.
Even world renowned broccoli frowner President George H. W. Bush could eat this stuff.
It turns out that fried broccoli doesn’t involve much broccoli after all. More like a breaded and fried cheese stick with a few bits of green vegetable matter stuffed inside.
In other words, fried broccoli is delicious!
Under any other circumstance, after consuming this much food, I’d ask for the check and be on my way.
Not at the Crystal Grill. Because when you dine here, you get pie.
I’m not saying they’ll lock you up in the Leflore County Jail if you refuse to indulge, but it is included in the price of your meal.
And it indeed would be a crime against man and nature to skip out on dessert at the Crystal Grill. This place has earned a well-deserved decade’s old reputation for the best pie in the great state of Mississippi.
You get three choices: chocolate meringue, coconut meringue or lemon ice box.
You really can’t go wrong.
The lemon ice box pie was cool, sweet and tart with a refreshing lemon zest.
The chocolate meringue was a mile high tower of goodness. The meringue was delicate and sweet and elegantly yielded to my folk as it slid down toward the cool chocolate below.
If you are a chocoholic like me, you will not be disappointed. Trust me.
If ever there were a dining destination that needed to be immortalized in my vast t-shirt collection, the Crystal Grill was it.
This place represents everything I love about the South. Great food. Downhome charm. Friendly hospitality. And a patient deliberateness to appreciate the finest life has to offer.
I couldn’t help but notice the irony that as I was appreciating all that is wonderful about the old Confederacy in the form of a single meal, a controversy was raging on the news about that ultimate symbol of the South, the Confederate Flag.
Southerners everywhere are being forced by a mob of Leftists and uppity Yankees to make a choice -- abandon the symbol that has represented their homeland in some sort of futile peace offering -- or stand to defend its honor in the face of unprecedented hatred and bullying.
While it seems like most of the politicians across the South have chosen to reenact the surrender at Appomattox, it is left to the silent majority of Southerners to articulate the value of their heritage.
For many Southerners, the flag is simply an iconic symbol of home -- and everything it stands for. From sweet tea to SEC tailgate parties.
For others, there is a deeper meaning.
The flag represents resistance to an overbearing federal government that now injects itself into every nook and cranny of our lives.
Am I the only one who noticed the irony that during this same week five unelected, unaccountable robed jackasses in Washington DC just changed the 10,000 year old definition of marriage by federal fiat?
If Sherman and Grant could see what the Federal Government they fought for has become, I’d like to imagine they’d be so ashamed they’d strip off their blue uniforms on the spot and joint the “Lost Cause”.
But why is the burden of proof on Southerners to defend their flag?
Shouldn’t the debate be centered on why Leftists and uppity Yankees hate the South -- and want to stamp out everything it stands for?
To them it represents a reprehensible ideology and way of life -- one where folks get along with each other just fine over a plate of tamales and fried chicken.
Where people don’t see the need to depend upon the kindness of politicians.
Independence. Traditional values. Faith. Confident appreciation of what works.
That’s what they hate.
They hate that the South is superior to the North in every way that matters. From politics to economics to weather to football to fried chicken.
They are envious of a people that can get along fine without them.
And if you think throwing the Confederate flag into a modern day auto-da-fé in a sacrificial offering will appease them, you are wrong.
This is just the warning shot on a second Yankee invasion.
The Leftists and uppity Yankees won’t stop until everyone lives and thinks like they do.
Give up the guns and religion you cling to. Your future is food stamps, Obamacare, gay weddings and Dunkin Donuts.
That’s why places like the Crystal Grill are an endangered yet cherished reminder of what makes the South great.
And that’s why my flag is still hanging. And why I bought the shirt.
Rating: Bought the Shirt!
Tuesday, June 9, 2015
20 E. 5th St.
Kansas City, MO
Sometimes I feel like a Kansas City barbeque failure.
I pride myself on my barbeque tasting expertise. You name the smoke shack or pig joint and chances are I’ve been there, tasted the ‘que, lived to tell you all about it and bought the shirt (or cleaned my grill with it).
I feel like I have a good handle on a wide cross section of the meat served in all the barbeque Meccas like Memphis, Columbia, Lexington and Lockhart.
But I’ve never really eaten my way through Kansas City, one of America’s great ‘que towns.
Oh sure, I’ve done the obligatory stops at Gates and Arthur Bryant’s.
But to really get a sense of the barbeque culture of a city, you have to do more than just check off the list of places that make regular appearances on cable TV.
And that’s where I feel like I can improve my performance in Kansas City.
I need to hit up L.C.’s, Rosedale and Danny Edwards -- the lesser known pit houses where the locals go to get real KC ‘que.
Unfortunately, all those venerable authentic smoke shacks tend to congregate on the south side of Kansas City -- a place where Suit757 rarely travels.
In general, local dive barbeque shacks tend to be in the parts of town Suit757 doesn’t have much business. (I’ll let you speculate about why that might be.)
Of course geographic inconvenience has never stopped me before. But with a tight schedule, I knew venturing out to wilds of South KC wasn’t going to be in the cards on this trip either.
There’s got to be some place in this barbeque crazed city to get some ribs and burnt ends near downtown.
Sure enough, I found Winslow’s BBQ.
It’s been around for over four decades. That’s a good sign.
Won lots of awards. Another good sign.
But when I walked up to Winslow’s I quickly realized that it is located in one of those fake touristy taxpayer subsidized “festival marketplaces” downtown along with stores selling souvenir KCMO coffee cups and key chains -- and t-shirts that read “Who farted?”
Not a good sign.
Definitely NOT a good sign.
There’s no way I’m going to get any sense of authentic KC barbeque at this joint.
But you know what?
The smoked meat served at Winslow’s was downright exquisite.
Too bad I was the only one in Kanas City getting to experience it.
Fortunately, the one lady who did double duty as the lone waitress and bar tender had the TV turned to the MLB Network with the sound turned up loud.
I happily sat there alone positioned directly in front of the TV drinking a big Boulevard Pale Ale out of a plastic cup watching baseball -- just like at the bar in my home.
Only I haven’t figured out how to make barbeque this good at home.
I ordered the three meat platter for $15. It was enough food to feed a family of four.
Five big meaty ribs with pork soft and tender like butter.
The pulled pork was soft and smoky like the best you’d find in North Carolina or Tennessee.
The brisket was best of all.
Usually when you order brisket, you can choose between sliced or chopped. This was like both in one.
The beef was sliced, but it was so tender it fell apart into delicious morsels of chopped brisket with the slightest touch of my fork.
All three meats were smoked to perfection, with telltale red smoke rings.
Most extraordinary was how tender and moist all three meats were.
Dave Winslow, the original founder, hired an engineer to invent a steam pit that evaporates 50 gallons of water per day.
At Winslow’s, the meat isn’t just smoked. It’s enveloped in steam for hours, yielding fall apart moist barbeque that needs no sauce.
Of course being Suit757, I had to try it anyway.
East Coast barbeque purists love to disparage Kansas City style barbeque for the thick glops of ketchupy sauce Midwesterners supposedly like to slather onto their meat.
Here at Winslow’s, that sauce discretion is left to the barbeque eater.
Winslow’s sauce was not as thick or sweet as some Kansas City sauces.
The sauce was good -- but unnecessary.
Some purists would claim it would be a crime to cover up such perfect barbeque with sauce.
For me, the real crime was that I was the only customer in the place.
Where the heck is everybody? There should be a line out the door for barbeque this good.
I think it is the location.
Nobody goes downtown anymore.
This has been a known phenomenon in virtually every American city since the advent of the shopping mall forty years ago.
This is the type of problem politicians like to solve with our tax money.
Of course they don’t bother to consider the REASON nobody goes downtown any more.
Business owners don’t open businesses downtown because…
…wait for it…
…nobody goes downtown any more.
So here’s the solution: pay business owners to locate downtown with taxpayer financed “festival marketplaces” like KC’s River Market.
But no matter how many tax subsidized businesses locate downtown, the politicians can’t create customers out of thin air.
Because nobody goes downtown any more.
No matter how good the barbeque happens to be.
And that’s too bad.
Winslow’s deserves a wider audience than just from suits who don’t have time to venture to the south side of town.
Rating: Bought the Shirt!