Thursday, May 30, 2013

I Sold My Soul to the Devil…And all I Got Was this T-Shirt






Abe’s Bar-B-Q
616 State Street
Clarksdale, MS





“I went to the crossroad
Fell down on my knees”
  -- Robert Johnson, Cross Road Blues


From Robert Johnson to Led Zeppelin to Eric Clapton, the image of a drifter standing in the moonlight at the crossing of two lonely roads has been elevated to an iconic symbolism.

Clarksdale, Mississippi and Abe’s Bar-B-Q, literally standing at the crossing of the state’s two “Blues Highways”, are both inextricably linked to the legend of “The Crossroads”.

Of course the most famous crossroads story of all is tied to Robert Johnson himself, that pioneer of Mississippi Delta blues.

Johnson grew up on the Abbay and Leatherman Plantation, which still operates today about 30 miles north of here.

Interested in music at a young age, Johnson would bug blues-playing share croppers on the plantation like Son House to show him licks on harmonica and guitar.

There was just one problem.

Basically, young Robert Johnson sucked.

Around 1930, Johnson moved away.

When he returned a few years later, Robert Johnson had transformed into the greatest blues guitarist on earth.

To the Folks around the Abbay and Leatherman Plantation there could be but one explanation for Johnson’s newfound proficiency…

…he must have sold his soul at some Delta crossroads in a late night deal with the devil.

Of course. What else could it be?

I guess it never occurred to these folks that combining God-given talent with lots and lots of hard work and practice might be a more logical conclusion.

You can see the roots of collectivism in this thinking: your successes in life can’t possibly be legitimately earned, so therefore the rest of us have a rightful claim on the fruits of your labor.

But I digress.

Besides, the whole “sold his soul to the devil at the crossroads” thing sounds a whole lot cooler.

Apparently, the Clarksdale Chamber of Congress agrees.

They have erected a gaudy monument of cris-crossing blue guitars in the middle of a median at the center of town where Highways 61 and 49 intersect, commemorating the spot where Johnson did his supposed soul bartering.

In a way I understand the logic.

Highway 61, “The Blues Highway”, has been immortalized in countless blues songs from Mississippi Fred McDowell to Bob Dylan.

Same with Highway 49, as sung by everyone from Big Joe Williams to Mick Jagger.

These two iconic roads cut straight through the heart of the Mississippi Delta where the blues was born and intersect here in Clarksdale.

In front of Mid-South Farm Supply, Krosstown Pawn Shop and Church’s Chicken.

Somehow, I doubt this is where Robert Johnson would actually choose to sell his soul to the devil.

All I know is if I were going to do some dealin’ with the devil, I’d want a bit more privacy, like on some lonely crossroads out in the country.

But then again, maybe the devil was hungry.

If so, this urban crossroads in the heart of Clarksdale wouldn’t be such a bad place to hang out.

Even in Robert Johnson’s day, Abe Davis, a Lebanese immigrant, was smoking and slicing pork right here in Clarksdale.

Now run by Abe’s sons and literally sitting under the shadow of the Chamber’s “Crossroads” Monument, Abe’s Bar-B-Q remains one of Mississippi’s top roadside culinary destinations.

The pork here is smoked over hickory for six hours, which is just long enough to melt the fat and cartilage into the meat, but not long enough to achieve that pull apart tenderness most barbeque masters seek.

But Abe’s solves that issue by slicing the smoked pork shoulders super thin and grilling the pork shavings on the flat top.

The result is crispy, delicate barbeque topped with a vinegary/ketchupy sauce.

Delicious. Especially as a sandwich.

The barbeque sandwich is a double-decker, kinda like a Big Mac, with alternating layers of bread, pork, sauce and cole slaw.

The sauce adds a zesty tang. The slaw a crunchy, cool bite. The squooshy fresh buns hold it all together.

But man cannot live on barbeque alone.

You can’t visit the Mississippi Delta without trying some local tamales.

Tamales? In Mississippi?

There aren’t any Mexicans in Mississippi!

Nope. And never have been.

Nobody knows where the Delta tradition of tamales originated. But I do know one thing.

Abe’s tamales are among the best.

Starchy corn meal filled with moist beef, Abe’s tamales are best when slathered with its signature meaty chili.

Some top-notch onion rings on the side and a cold Coors Light long neck to wash it all down, Abe’s Bar-B-Q was a highlight of my trip to the Delta.

It was so good, I thought about how I’d give ANYTHING to get a replica of the Abe’s Bar-B-Q/Crossroads t-shirt my waitress was wearing.

Well, just about anything.

I’m not saying I’d sell my soul to the devil for a t-shirt, but I’m glad I didn’t have to.

Rating: Bought the Shirt!



Abe's Bar-B-Q on Urbanspoon


Abe's Bar-B-Q on Foodio54

26 comments:

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  11. Those "testimonies" are ridiculous! That's not exactly how it goes at All!

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  12. It's too bad that he sold his soul to the devil and yet he STILL couldn't get his d*mn guitar in TUNE!! Robert! I would have been happy to TUNE your guitar for you - for FREE!!! God, You s*cked!!

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    That is the administration office, if you choose to make your dreams come true you can join through that address giving above or if you think that you can not make it to U.S.A you can send a mail to that email address that is also there, so that you can be instruct how to join the church of satan
    WARNING: only those who are intrested to become a member of the church of satan are allow to visit office or send a mail to the email address below.
    Do not contact if you are not intrested and once you contact there is no going back. so think befor contacting.
    email:joinilluminatitemple626@gmail.com OR whatsapp number +2349073889037.

    ReplyDelete
  19. WELCOME TO THE OFFICAL POST OF THE CHURCH OF SATAN

    The church of satan was created by our late hight priest magus anton szandor lavey on walpurgisachd 1966 as year one,since that date the church of satan
    and anton szandor lavey have become household name,the opening and floodgates of a revolution designed to smash the hypocrisy and unreason of organised religion and mystical philosophies of either rigit or left handpaths.
    our primary goals is to clearly disseminate the philosophy created by Anton szandor lavey to those who have an intrest in becoming a member of the church of satan, we are looking for a few outstanding individual who have what it takes to be one of the Alite elite.To us satan is the symbol that best suite the nature of we who are carner by birth.the name "illuminati" is a name given to the church of satan because of the aim of the church and the name "illuminati" means ALL FOR ONE or WE ARE ALL ONE.
    The church of satan is a religion that best suit men who want to increase their wisdom,their talent,their famouness and their wealth. the church of satan have help so many people in worldwide till date, the blessing of the church of satan is unlimited and can never stop if you are a member.
    Satanism is not for everyone but if you choose to be a member,we welcome you.church of satan is not a fan club,a pen pal society,or a loney heart group, the church of satan is a group of dynamic individuals who stand forth as the ultimate underground alternative -the Alien Elite. we realize what we have,what we are and what we shall become. our scope is unlimited and extent of your involvement is base upon your own potential.
    Beware of who you contact if you choose to become member of the church of satan because not all post are real. the church of satan is not a play ground for kids or those who just want to become a member and posses wealth, before joinning the church of satan you must have something you engage yourself in that you want the church of satan to increase.email joinilluminatitemple626@gmail.com PLEASE NOTE: There is no local branched on any local contact through which one can become a member, the only central administration office is only here in U.S.A in new york
    CENTRAL ADMINISTRATION OFFICE
    church of satan
    p.o.box 666
    poughkeepsie
    new york
    email: joinilluminatitemple626@gmail.com whatsapp number +2349073889037
    phone calls are not accepted or returned.
    That is the administration office, if you choose to make your dreams come true you can join through that address giving above or if you think that you can not make it to U.S.A you can send a mail to that email address that is also there, so that you can be instruct how to join the church of satan
    WARNING: only those who are intrested to become a member of the church of satan are allow to visit office or send a mail to the email address below.
    Do not contact if you are not intrested and once you contact there is no going back. so think befor contacting.
    email:joinilluminatitemple626@gmail.com OR whatsapp number +2349073889037...

    ReplyDelete
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    ReplyDelete
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